#6 two surfs-two pieces-one day
This morning Jose drove me to Sopalina to surf because he had some work to do nearby. When we got to the beach I looked at the surf from atop the high cliff and saw a choppy, messy, stormy sea. The sky was clouded and not a person on the beach let alone in the water. I knew Jose had to work and so I was committed to my task. I walked down the stairs on the side of the cliff to get to the beach. It reminded me a bit of my beloved blacks beach, but these stairs empty out into a cove and the descent not quite as long. The sand is quite dark still and in some areas even black. I took some pictures of the board, suited up, and paddled out to where I guessed the break sort of was and hoped that I was far enough from the rocks that lined both sides of the cliff. The waves were a little bigger than they looked from the beach, but not near a size that I normally feel uncomfortable in. I DID feel a little uncomfortable about being in an unfamiliar break with no one around. The current too was wild and pulling out. I mostly had to paddle towards the beach just to stay in the take off zone. I figured it out after a little bit of being out of position and got a few short, but exciting rides. At this point I am still learning about my board and feel slightly unsure with it, but it has given my no reason to doubt it. Unfortunately it was shaped for a different purpose (at only 5'4" long and 20" wide with a fill nose and tail I was originally having it made for the small waves of long island where I live) but then this trip to Europe popped up suddenly, and now I am just viewing riding a small wave board in good sized waves as a fun challenge.
After an hour and a half I climbed back up the cliff to meet José at our allotted time and place.
Back at José s place as we eat lunch he asks me what I want to do for the rest of the day. It's already in my mind when he suggests I may be able to get on a train to Mundaka and surf before sunset. That was all I needed. He explained the route to me and sent me on my way. I was nervous and excited the whole way. This is a wave that I had never really even dreamed I would get a chance to surf. Train ride was easy, and a short walk through town had me looking at a small crowd catching nearly every left that came through a lineup in the most beautiful of surroundings. I geared up quickly and found a nice spot to hide my phone and wallet( I know that's not smart). I followed a guy and paddled out of the little port from behind the breakwall. Mundaka breaks into a river mouth and as soon as we paddle clear of the harbor we can basically just sit on our boards as the current pulls us out to the break; and so we do for a moment. I follow this guy silently as he paddles over now to the main takeoff point. I was able to surf for about 2 hours with overhead waves before the light got low. I caught a few good ones and was able to get a much better feel for the board. I am really happy with it's performance. The board has given me zero problems so far and has really been a joy to travel with. There are many situations where I would at least feel self conscious toting a surfboard, but with the carbon compact people don't even look twice at me (except of course the surfers. If it is in the bag they think it is a boogie board, and if it is out of the bag they flip out and have to check it out for themselves! ).